Discover Germany’s Cultural Heartland – Arnstadt

Last updated: 25 June 2023

Originally Published December 2016. This is the second post in a five part series covering my recent travels through the Thuringia region of Germany. The first post was all about the town of Erfurt, capital of the Thuringia region and why it’s considered to be the spiritual home of Martin Luther, the Father of the Protestant Reformation. This post will focus on the historical importance of Arnstadt. Are you ready? Great, here we go!

Where is Arnstadt?

The historical town of Arnstadt is located a short 15 min train journey from Erfurt which makes it the perfect place to head to following an exploration of Thuringia’s capital city. With a population of approximately 25,000 people, Arnstadt is a relatively small German town and that’s exactly why you’re going to want to visit.

Stepping Back in Time

From the moment I stepped foot off the train and began my walk to the centre of town, I couldn’t take my eyes off the medieval buildings, the elegant cobblestone streets, and the winding alleyways. It felt as though I had been transported back in time, I couldn’t stop the smile from spreading ear to ear.  

Arnstadt – The Oldest Town in Central Germany

There is a reason why Arnstadt is called the oldest town in central Germany, it was founded in the year 704, making it over 1300 years old! Isn’t that reason enough to want to visit? To walk through the same streets and visit Churches that generations have been doing for over a millennia?

It’s not just about the beautiful buildings and streets, Arnstadt was town where the very influential Martin Luther and Johann Sebastian Bach visited, worked, and lived centuries ago. The connection and reverence to both men can still be felt to this day.

See also: Discover Germany’s Cultural Heartland – Erfurt

Oberkirche

We met our friendly and informative guide, Oliver, in the courtyard of the Oberkirche church.

The Oberkirche was constructed as a Franciscan Monastery in the 13th century, atop a hill at the outskirts of the Old Town. The interior of the church, measuring 60 metres by 11 metres,  contains various 17th century relics, such as the high altar, various statues, and paintings.

The Oberkirche played an important role in the life of Martin Luther during his formative years as a young monk in Erfurt. Luther visited Arnstadt and was a guest at the Franciscan monastery where he once listened to a sermon by Franciscan brother, Dr Henricus Kuhn. It was the progressive ideas mentioned during that sermon that stirred new ideas and concepts in Luther.   

To discover more about Martin Luther and his connection to the Thuringia region, check out the Luther To Go mobile app on both iOS and Android.

During our visit to the Oberkirche, there were significant renovations taking place for the 500 year anniversary of the Protestant Reformation (1517 – 2017). Arnstadt, and the surrounding towns, all played an important role in the life and times of Martin Luther which means that 2017 will be an important time (and the best time!) to visit the Thuringia region.

The Liebfrauenkirche Church

The Liebfrauenkirche, Church of Our Lady, is a 13th century church located a short 10 min walk from Oberkirche and is one of the most important churches in the Thuringia region as it dates back to the transitional period between the Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles.

The Liebfrauenkirche was constructed between 1230-1250 making it over 700 years old and was constructed in two styles; One side of the church was constructed in the Romanesque-style and the other half in Gothic, this can be seen when exploring the interior of the church.

When we arrived at the church, Oliver unlocked the gate and we entered through the large heavy wooden doors. I think for the first time on my trip, I was dumbfounded. The interior of the Liebfrauenkirche was spectacular. I must have stood there for a good few minutes simply absorbing the grand interior.

I was drawn to the magnificent stained-glass windows which shone brightly out of the darkness like a beacon and seemed to welcome us. Situated beneath the grand windows in the Church choir (the main area in the church which provides seating to the clergy) was the large winged altar, a spectacular golden altar which was created in 1498.

The Liebfrauenkirche Church is open from May to September but is currently looking for more volunteers to support with the opening hours. I mention this in case the church isn’t open during your visit. I’m hopeful that with the upcoming Martin Luther 500th Anniversary of The Reformation celebrations that more people may be interested in supporting this church because its awe-inspiring interior should definitely be experienced by all visitors.

Bachkirche

The Bachkirche, or Bach Church, is the common name given to the Johann Sebastian Bach Church which was named in 1935 in celebration of its association with the famous composer.

When Oliver mentioned that he wanted to show us something special and took us towards the Bachkirche, I had no idea that we were about to see some genuinely surprising history.

We walked down the nave, appreciating the how modern the interior looked, but it was only when we turned around to see a beautiful grand church organ. It was massive! It completely dominated the entire upper area of the church.

Our guide, Oliver, explained that it was Johann Friedrich Wender who constructed the original organ from 1699 to 1703. The organ was then inspected by a 17 year old organist, Johann Sebastian Bach. Following the inspection and giving his approval, Bach was hired as the church organist. 

Visiting the Bachkirche was a genuine surprise and one that I’d recommend to you. Also, the church organ is used during the occasional concert so if that happens during your time in Arnstadt then definitely go (and then let me know what it was like)

Want To Explore the Great Outdoors?

Visited the churches and soaked up enough history? Need some fresh air? No problem. Arnstadt also boasts natural splendour which can be experienced on the Rennsteig Trail.

I wouldn’t exactly describe myself as the outdoorsy type but when Oliver mentioned over lunch that one reason why people visit Arnstadt is to tackle a 168 km walk across the backbone of the Thuringia forest, I have to admit I was intrigued! The Rennsteig Trail starts in Horschel and passes right through Arnstadt and finishes in Blankenstein. So in addition to the many buildings of historical and cultural significance, Arnstadt offers visitors the opportunity to get amongst nature and explore central Germany. Who would have known?!

Hungry? Where to go for lunch?

Tanya Harding Restaurant

Ok, first things first, this is NOT a restaurant run by the notorious American former ice skater but rather a wonderful Canadian chef who moved to Arnstadt and currently serves up delicious food in a very cozy atmosphere. We visited on quite a cold and frosty lunch time so we eagerly ordered one of warm specials on offer; wild boar and deer stew. It was easily one of the best meals we had during our entire trip.

Do yourself a favour, if you’re looking for a warm and home cooked meal then Tanya Harding is a delicious choice.

Final Thoughts

Why visit Arnstadt?

If you’re looking to explore century old churches & buildings, discover the hidden stories of famous figures such as Martin Luther and Johann Sebastian Bach, and feel like you’ve taken a step back in time then Arnstadt can’t be beaten.

Travel Times

Berlin: 3 hours (train); 3 hours (car)   

Munich: 5 hours (train); 4 hours (car)  

Frankfurt: 3 hours (train); 3 hours (car)

Russell’s Recommendation: I was surprised to learn that during summer some people visit Arnstadt to pan for gold! As an Australian who grew up learning about the great Aussie gold rush, I never thought of heading to central Germany to pan for gold. I am just digging out my pickaxe and shovel now…

Disclaimer

Our visit to the Thuringia region was in partnership with the Thuringia Tourism Board.  As always, all opinions expressed are our own