An Honest Account of a Scrub Massage in Tbilisi

Last updated: 29 July 2023

The natural hot sulphur springs in Tbilisi have led to a bathing culture in the Georgian capital. Situated on the Silk Road linking Europe and Asia, Tbilisi has seen thousands of merchants over centuries pass through weary and tired. What better way to rejuvenate than with a relaxing soak and then a scrub massage in Tbilisi sulphur baths, one of the most popular things to do in Tbilisi.

This post continues on from our First Time Visitors Guide to the Tbilisi Sulphur Baths

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The Soak before my Georgian Massage

Soaking away in the roastingly-hot sulphur springs in Tbilisi I awaited my scrub massage. Our tiled private room echoed our hushed conversations; What should I expect from this? Should I wear swimwear? Would Russ stay in the bath next to the massage table and watch my massage take place?

My body was marinating in the 40-50°C sulphur waters and while I should have felt entirely relaxed I was filled with some nervous energy about the unknown scrub massage. My only point of reference was a desquamated massage I had once in Morocco, where I was scrubbed like a dirty dog with a mitt which can only be described as sandpaper. Pleasant isn’t a word I’d use to describe my Moroccan experience so I was eager to see what Georgia had in store for me.

Russ decided he wasn’t going to sit in the sulphur bath and watch the massage unfold. After all this wasn’t a couples massage with dual tables side by side with fluffy towels and plinky plonky music piped through speakers. This was one room, with a tiled massage table large enough for one, a wall shower and our sulphur pool. While he could have stayed, but he would have had to be a spectator for the whole experience.

My Massage in Tbilisi Begins…

It was 40 minutes into our hour long soak, my masseuse entered our room. A busty Georgian lady wearing nothing more than a skimpy black singlet and black cotton shorts. I had mentally debated about being naked during my scrub but I convinced myself it was the local thing to do. Any self confidence I had went out the window when she looked me up and down as she walked in.

Cue a moment of utter self loathing and regretting the numerous khachapuri I ate the days before.

She removed her singlet to reveal a black lacy bra and hung her shirt on the vacant hook. I softly mutter the only greeting in Georgian I know, “gamarjoba”. It was instantly evident that she spoke no English other than key words, which was still a long way in front of my Georgian so we would have to muddle our way through without a common language.

“Sit!” she demanded and pointed to the cold tiled stone slab table in our room. I obeyed and self consciously perched on the edge and watched as she filled her bucket with warm sulphur water from the tap.

I was grateful for the warm sulphur air to keep me warm as I sat naked facing her, continuing to observe silently as she lathered up a coarse exfoliating mitt. Before long she seized my right arm, twisting it up and around as the forceful scrubbing began, layers of dead skin flying about as she exfoliated every inch of my bare body up to my chin.

Things Were About To Get Awkward for Me

Before long she made emphatic hand gestures for me to recline. On my back, face up, finding a spot on the wall to look at while mentally denying my full frontal nudity and attempting to preserve whatever dignity I had left. At the same time, the abrasive mitt makes its way across my chest, stomach before moving south to my legs and feet. Before I know it, a pail is dunked in sink and warm water is flung at me from a distance.

“Turn!”, she says in English with a stern look on her face. I conform and undertake the perilous task to flip while horizontal on the table, hoping and praying to every deity that I don’t slip straight off the side and onto the tiles below.

The abrasive mitt scrubs my shoulders and back before making its way to my derrière. She continues to scrub without pause especially during the moments where I clench and tense the muscles in my body from her touch. I tell myself to breathe and just relax.

It’s not her, it’s me

My awkwardness comes from the fact that I’m just not accustomed to being naked in front of strangers. That and the proximity.  This is certainly the first time I’ve had the space between my bum cheeks exfoliated, and let me tell you, wowzas! That’s an experience!

While I mentally reel from enduring the abrasive mitt, she takes a few steps back and hurls another pail of warm water in my direction.

Before I know it, we have moved onto phase two. Who knew there was a phase two?! She takes a wet soapy pillowcase-like flannel layered with soapy suds and rubs it all over my skin, and suddenly I feel like I’m in the soap stage of a drive-thru car wash.

Read More: Street Art in Tbilisi

Another perilous flip, I’m laying on my front and the soap and the flannel goes slightly higher up my inner thigh than I expect and instinctively clench again. It’s not invasive but certainly a long way from my standard level of comfort.

She moves swiftly and cracks on to the massage portion. The “massage” can best be described as brief. A light touch waving over my body, I don’t mind much as I’m here for the scrub, and surely got my money’s worth.

Again without warning she dunks her bucket in the tub and douses me in water several times.

Before I know it, my 20 mins is up. She’s packing up her things, grabs her singlet from the hook wiggling it over her damp torso and walks out of the room taking the 20₾ note I left strategically on the table for her

How Did I Feel After the Massage?

Overall my aching limbs feel rejuvenated from the sulphur waters healing properties and the scrub has left my skin is as soft as a new-born baby.  Aside from my own insecurities, the experience is relaxing, and I am warmed to my very core and a tad sleepy from the hot sulphur springs.

Would I Do It Again?

Yes! Although next time I’ll wear bikini bottoms for my next scrub massage to ease my own insecurities.

The Essentials

Scrub Massage in Tbilisi

• Where: I had this massage at Orbeliani Baths in Tbilisi. Other hot sulphur bathhouses in the area offer similar treatments for similar prices
• Duration: 20 mins
• Price: 20₾ (Georgian Lari)/$7.50USD/£6 GBP
• Insider tip: Nude or not nude is a personal choice.  With the benefit of hindsight I’ll wear bikini bottoms next time.
• Things to note: While this post reflects my first hand experience of a scrub massage at Orbeliani Baths in Tbilisi, your experience may vary
• More information: Website