Last updated: 29 July 2023
Our first trip in the new year was to the Netherlands with a challenge set by international ferry company Stena Line to spend a weekend in The Hague by taking a ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland.
Getting to The Hague
Finishing work on a Friday evening we headed to London Liverpool Street (yes, the one from the Monopoly board) to catch a train to Essex where our ferry awaited us. The ferry served as both our accommodation, most meals and transport in one ticket so no need for a hotel this trip.
Anytime we’ve taken a ferry in the past we’ve taken our car with us. This time was our first time travelling as a foot passenger on the overnight ferry from Harwich to the Hook of Holland.
While you can take your car on the ferry, we opted for the Stena Line Rail & Sail option which includes rail tickets from London to Harwich and public transport in the Netherlands. Getting to Harwich International train station was really simple, as boarding any East Anglia train heading to Harwich, with the train station of Harwich International situated within the ferry port.
Checking In
If my check-in, immigration and security screening process was always this quick I would commute on the ferry every day. It could not have been easier! So much so, it took me longer to pull my passport out of my bag than it was to get through the non-existent immigration queue!
Stena Hollandica and her sister ship Stena Britannica are two of the largest Superferries in the world so we wanted to make sure we boarded well ahead of our 11pm departure time, to settle into our cabin and spend the rest of the evening exploring the ferry and having dinner at the Metropolitan restaurant before bedtime.
Rooms Onboard Stena Line
All cabins onboard are available on both day and night crossings in a variety of configurations. Our two-berth outside cabin meant we had a window to see the stars in the sky and the waves lapping at the hull.
Our room had double + single bunk bed, en-suite bathroom with walk-in shower, A/C, wall-mounted flat screen television, and a small dressing table. Amenities were light in the form of a 3-in-1 shampoo, conditioner and body wash so I was glad I packed my own. The mattresses were comfortable however I thought the pillows were due for replacement.
How Was The Crossing?
Full disclosure here, I do suffer motion sickness. Bet that’s a surprise and something you don’t expect from a travel blogger! Given that I was pretty nauseous on a boat in Iceland, I came prepared with motion sickness tablets, just hoped I wouldn’t need them.
The first night crossing Russ and I shared the small double bed. With a width of just 120cm we found this to be pretty snug for the two of us. I did pop some motion sickness tablets at around 3am, my precarious position on the edge of the bed and some rough seas kept my slumber somewhat lighter than I’d preferred.
We opted to take one bunk each for a bit more space on the return journey. I would recommend this for any medium to large-size adults or just upgrade to a Comfort Class Cabin for more space.
Why Spend 24 hours in The Hague?
First and foremost we’re short break experts. We’re very good at squeezing a lot into a short amount of time. It’s not always the best way, but when you work full time and juggle a love of travel you do what you can do in the time you have.
As the ferry docked into the Hook of Holland ferry terminal at 8am Saturday morning. We had breakfast on board so could hit the ground running.
Transfers from the Hook of Holland to The Hague entail multiple steps. At present there is no metro station at Hook of Holland which means foot passengers need to board a shuttle bus to the nearby Dutch city of Schiedam. From here you’re able to connect to many cities including Rotterdam and The Hague by rail. Foot passengers using the Rail & Sail option have tickets for these trains included.
Things To Do In The Hague
First and foremost The Hague is synonymous with a few things. Politically, it’s the seat of the Dutch government and home to the Royal family. Culturally, it’s home to Jan Vermeer’s famous painting, “Girl With a Pearl Earring” as well as the International Court of Justice which aims to maintain peace and settle international disputes between countries.
Mauritshuis
Often described as the Dutch Mona Lisa, Girl With a Pearl Earring is a piece of art painted by Vermeer. Unlike her Parisian counterpart, visitors at the Mauritshuis can get up close and personal for a proper inspection of this famous piece.
Typically these iconic works are incredibly popular so we headed straight to Mauritshuis for its 10am open and spent 90 minutes browsing the impressive collection including pieces by Dutch masters like Rembrandt and Hals.
Insider tip: Bring some headphones and download the Mauritshuis Tour to your phone prior to visiting to get an audio tour and additional detail about pieces and their meanings.
Binnenhof
Turning right out of Mauritshuis and head through the Grenadierspoort (Grenadier’s Gate) to discover the Binnenhof, the Dutch Parliament building and the oldest parliament in the world still in use.
Strolling around the Binnenhof I began to notice that it’s comprised of several buildings were constructed around the court. Ridderzaal (Knight’s Hall), where King Willem Alexander delivers his annual Prince’s Day address to Parliament which is held on the third Tuesday in September. Next door to the Mauritshuis is het Torentje (The Little Tower), which has been the office of the Prime Minister of Holland since 1982. There’s also the modern House of Representatives which is juxtaposed with the famous, and very Instagrammable, gold neo-gothic fountain which adorns the main square.
We couldn’t get on one during our brief visit, but there are guided tours through the Ridderzaal, the Dutch Senate and House of Representatives are available as well as city walks through The Hague’s political district in Dutch and English.
Hofvijver
Both Mauritshuis and the Binnenhof face the Hofvijver (Court Pond), a pond in the centre of the city which was first dug out in the late 13th century.
Popular with joggers and dog walkers, however it’s not the sort of body of water where you can hire pedal boats or swim.
Insider Tip: Come here at dusk for blue hour light and reflections of Lange Vijverberg, a curving line of mostly 18th century mansions, perfect for coffee table book worthy photos.
Escher at the Palace
Housed in the former Winter Palace of Queen Mother Emma of the Netherlands is a permanent collection by optical artist, MC Escher. If you don’t recognise the name, you’d surely recognise his work.
These mathematical masterpieces feature water flowing uphill, birds morphing into fish and numerous staircases in one piece, all which play games with your eyes and brain.
Be sure to make time to explore the second floor for first hand Escher-style experiences. Great for adults and kids alike!
Insider Tip: Lockers are needed for large bags, in winter ditch your coat at the same time. You will need a (refundable) €1 coin for the lockers although tokens are available at the front desk if you ask nicely.
Peace Palace
Undoubtedly the most photographed building in The Hague, the Peace Palace is a Neo-Renaissance style administrative building, housing amongst other things, the seat of the International Court of Justice, and the Permanent Court of Arbitration.
Entry to the Visitor Centre is free where there is an interactive, albeit limited, exhibition.
It is possible to visit inside the Peace Palace on a guided tour. The 45 min tours are run on some weekends throughout the year and over several weeks in the summer for up to 20 people, although we had slightly more than that.
The tour is interesting, although physically fast moving through the Palace’s Great and Small Hall of Justice, the corridors and the Japanese Room. Political and history buffs may feel the group size too large and information provided lacking in detail. For me this felt more like a quick supervised ferret around the otherwise inaccessible Palace rather than a proper tour.
It’s worth noting that this was probably the strictest no photography policy I’ve ever seen, cameras, phones and bags are forbidden, passports are required upon entry as well as passing through metal detectors. Tours are run in English and Dutch and advance booking is essential.
Easily missed is the eternal Peace Flame which burns beside the entrance to the Peace Palace. I anticipated it to be similar scale to flames of the Unknown Soldier. Instead the small monument containing the flame is surrounded by the World Peace Path, a path of stones sourced from 196 countries which represents the commitment of each nation to peace, together forming a symbolic pathway. Each of the 196 stones is unique and special, including a piece of stone from the Berlin Wall and a stone from Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for many years.
Panorama Mesdag
The largest circular canvas in Europe providing a 360º panorama experience of Scheveningen from 1881.
Scheveningen is a modern district of The Hague with a long sandy beach, an esplanade, a pier, and a lighthouse. The special feature of the 1680 m2 painting is that the view is never the same with the changes of light the piece appears to change from moment to moment.
Insider tip: As a unique cultural historical Dutch monument, go early to avoid the crowds
The Passage
Let me be straight with you. The Passage IS pretty and it is very Instagrammable. It is also the only remaining example of a covered shopping street in the Netherlands. However, it does feel like just another indoor shopping arcade.
It houses cafes, the Apple store, an Art shop stocking some pretty interesting local and international artists work. Overall it is great to pass through and snap a few pictures, or perhaps to take refuge from the rain.
Palace Noordeinde
Stroll along the street known as Noordeinde and you’ll soon discover Paleis Noordeinde (Palace Noordeinde) the the imposing black gates of this modest working Palace.
It’s worth noting that you’re unlikely to get past the front gates as this palace is not open to the public, however, at the back lies the beautifully landscaped Palace Garden with the entry located just off Prinsessewal (street). Owned by the Municipality of The Hague, the garden is open to the public daily and is full romantic flowerbeds, ponds, fountains and marble statues.
If you’re visiting in the warmer months, I imagine this place would serve a great spot for a picnic.
Madurodam
One point of interest which was highly recommended from everyone we spoke to ahead of our day in The Hague was Madurodam.
An interactive miniature park featuring relevant Dutch history and stories including canal houses, tulip fields, cheese market, a clog factory, windmills, the Peace Palace will leave you feeling a bit like a giant as you stroll through the attraction.
If after all this you still have time to spare, or if the weather is superbly summery, make your way to the famous pier in Scheveningen. Drink, dine and explore the beach which also houses a Ferris wheel, a zip line, and a relaxed coastal atmosphere. We discussed me running into the North Sea like some sun and sea deprived Antipodean but I chickened out at the thought of a water temperature that was borderline freezing.
Where To Eat In The Hague
We had just one day in The Hague. While I could have spent most of my day moving from one restaurant to another, that wouldn’t make for the most interesting blog post. So, to make up for it, I’ve listed the places we ate at and a few extra sourced from locals and the wonderful blogging community.
Hop & Stork
For a quick visit, coffee will keep you going throughout the day. Enter Hop & Stork. Part cafe, part chocolatier, it’s located within The Hague’s historic Passage and hailed among the top three coffee shops in the Netherlands in 2015. We swung by for some espresso and a chocolate (or three!).
Pop in here for your fix, and be sure to get some extra chocolate to go.
InStock
A unique no-waste concept where food surplus is turned into delicious meals. Crooked fish, wonky carrots are prominent features on the Instock menu.
Baladi Manouche
If you’re up for some Middle Eastern on the go you can’t go past a manouche.
These flat breads are freshly made to order with a variety of home-made toppings. I opted for a half/half Zaatar & Cheese Manouche. If that doesn’t tickle your fancy there are plenty of fillings of veggie, cheese, falafel, and beef.
Bleyenberg
A trendy bar and restaurant complete with the very first rooftop terrace in The Hague. Offering views over the Grote Markt and the rest of the city center of The Hague, it’s worth a visit even when the sun is not shining. Sadly, you can’t book.
Tapisco
This stunning building is hard to miss. Formerly housing a bookstore for 3 centuries, visitors to Tapisco are captured by the beautiful Portuguese floor tiles.
The name-blending kind of gives it away, “tap-isco”, is a blend of tapas and the Portuguese equivalent, petisco. This michelin-star restaurant serves up the very best of Iberian cuisine in The Hague plus cocktails, Spanish and Portuguese wines.
The seasonal 3 course lunch menu is particularly good value.
Final Thoughts
A Weekend in The Hague, or even just one day, is the right amount of time for this great short break destination. The compact city makes it easy to navigate on foot, and using the ferry was a method of transport we hadn’t previously considered for this route. While we did cram a lot into out itinerary for The Hague, it could certainly be stretched by a day or two to give more time to explore the large array of museums on offer and the inspiring dining scene. As always, if you find yourself in The Hague, tag us on Twitter, Instagram or Facebook to let us know your thoughts on visiting The Hague.
[…] Restoration House is worth a visit, two medieval buildings which were combined in the late 16th or early 17th century and takes its name and timing of its most famous guest. King Charles II stayed here on the eve of the Restoration in 1660, as the only crossing of the River Medway along on the road from Dover to London after he returned to the country from exile in The Hague. […]
This is such an interesting way to travel. Definitely beats getting on budget airlines at 6am!
Oh so true and haven’t we all had our fair share of that!